I just share what I know, and lets hope you find a bit which help to sort your problem out.
Look! First of all,seems like your garage is really trying to help. That is good.
Other thing is : you NO need to set the camber to 0.15 bang on. Its all right somewhere around,if other things following it.
As I wrote before mine is ok. Was ok since 22nd of Marc 2013. I have done the settings with home made stuff,but i have re-checked it in the garage
where I worked back then, using their optical type (not laser) equipment. It read about similar ,but it was not a very accurate stuff.
Any way. Car was fine. No wheel hop at full lock, nothing.
I have done some other work on the car ,so the struts have been moved,So I have used my home made stuff again,just roughly.
then I had a slight pull to the left.I drove it like that for about a year,it was just a very slight pull.
Once I decided to do it properly at my new work place with their John Beam 3D Imaging equipment
http://www.johnbean.com/wa-v3d-el.asp
This is very precise!
Then here are the after and before print outs:
Please ignore the red readings,and the minus and plus camber is not indicated graphically perfect because as you see a Camaro model was selected,
(was no option for Pontiac)
and that stupid data base of the machine was totally wrong about the '86 Camaro. The NUMBERS only what matters!
If you look at the before photo,it was a bit of everywhere but the car was running fine,no wheel hop. The slight pull to the left was mainly caused by the right wheel camber was too far in,it wanted to steer itself to the left.
If you see my note on the top,it says there was no tyre wear. but the left camber was +o.28 (lean right-or outwards) and right wheel was leaning inwards -0.41!
Then i have done the adjustment,as described in my post two before this one.
As you see the right camber is on 0.06' (minute-Not degree) because there was NO MORE MOVEMENT possible.Not a problem.The car drives like a dream.
I gave it a tiny toe out just to help the toe out on turns geometry,
but its literally nothing.(3 minutes total - 3/60 of one degree)
I Also adjusted the caster properly,as you see they bang on. (the value is bang on, ignore its showing red.)
So...
If you can not have 0.15, don't worry,
If you have -0.12 per side, its not a problem , I bet my life it can not cause any noticeable handling issues on road.
To try to get the camber 0.15 :
Mark the strut tops where they are now. (-0.12' if I'm right..)
Then jack the car up to unload the strut tops,slack all the bolts and try to move the struts ,kind of free them off,until they can move out from you mark lines.
If it wouldn't help then remove the nuts,(car is still jacked up),and grease the surfaces ,even underside,in the wheel arch where the stud bracket thingy lives.that should move freely as well.
These ones:
If there's no more movement possible, then don't worry,just stick to -012', give some toe 0.00 or if you have wheel hop at full lock then give some toe out like
-0.05 or -0.08 per side
(you have negative camber anyway) it will be perfect.
The vibration issue:
Is it a vibration ON the steering wheel?
If the answer is no, and its just a vibration coming from the front somewhere,and it was not there before the wheel bearing change..I bet its not the tyre, it is
the wheel bearing.
I had a wheel bearing issue ,I noticed it on the motorway (around 70 mph, like you) and it felt like the car running on rough asphalt surface.
You know, when you running off the new-resurfaced asphalt to the old rough surface and the noise level increases and vibration too.That type of vibration.
I was clueless at first.The noise was different to a typical wheel bearing rumbling noise,what I deal with on a daily basis at work.
When I jacked the car up; the wheels were spinning free,noiseless and no free play.
But it was a wheel bearing going on the left side.
So in your case, make sure the big nut is tightened that much that the free play on a jacked up wheel is very close to nothing.
If it is, then it could have another problem,
If the bearing(s) inner race too loose fit on the spindle, it can spin on it when you drive at higher speeds,giving you the symptoms.
The inner race should slide on to the spindle by hand,using slight effort, but shouldn't waggle,cluck or be slack on it.
Its hard to describe how it should feel when you push it on ,but I hope you have an idea.
If you take it a part ,you can see marks on the spindle if the inner race was spinning on it.
If I was telling you the obvious ,in all this, I'm sorry then, I do not know your level of skill or knowledge.
I wish you success with it!
